A few thoughts on pistol sights

AmeriGlo Hackathorn sights on my Glock 19 slide

If you were to thumb through a Brownells or Midway catalog, you'd see an entire section dedicated to pistol sights.  Sights of all shapes, sizes, and colors can be found with a quick Google search.  Even many tactical trainers and training companies have their own sights.  "Why so many sights?" you might ask.  Well, for one thing, sights are pretty easy to change out.  Sights can also be a very personal choice.  Much like a grip material or style, a lot of people have very deeply held feelings about what type of sights they like.

For me personally, I generally have two main criteria: I want a front sight that draws my eye and can be seen under a variety of light conditions, and I want a rear sight that has a ledge to allow me to rack the slide one-handed if I need to.

The two sights that I tend to rely on are the Redback One (RB-1) sights designed in conjunction with 10-8 Performance, and the AmeriGlo Hackathorn (GL-433) sights.  The RB-1 sights reside on my Glock 17, and the Hacks reside on my Glock 19.  The RB-1 sights were my first sights that I ever changed out on a pistol, and at the time, they were ideal.  The front sight is a narrow blade with a tritium insert.  The rear sight is plain black, serrated to reduce glare, with a wide notch to allow me to pick up the front sight faster.  It has just enough of a ledge to catch the edge of a holster to rack the slide with a single hand.  The combination of the narrow front and wide rear is not ideal for longer-range precision shots, but really does lend itself to fast sight acquisition at normal self-defense ranges.  The Hackathorn sights are similar, but an improvement, in my opinion.  The front sight is still tritium, but it's surrounded by a fiber optic ring that increases the sight's visibility in brighter conditions where the tritium isn't effective.  The rear sight is similar to the RB-1, but with a slightly larger ledge.  Both rear sights slide into the standard Glock rear sight cut and are held in place with a set screw.  I used blue Loc-Tite on the set screw, but both sights fit into the sight cut tight enough that I'm not really worried about them moving.  Both sights shoot point of aim/point of impact.

Both sight sets are excellent choices, but if I had to choose a favorite, it would be the Hacks.  The addition of the fiber optics to the tritium insert really, really draws the eye, and is more applicable in a wider variety of situations.  I highly recommend them to anyone looking to replace their stock Glock sights.

Review of the Raven Concealment Vanguard Holster

So I've had the chance to utilize the Raven Vanguard 2 for about a month now, and I'm impressed.  You should seriously evaluate this holster if you are looking for a versatile system that allows for IWB, or off-body carry.

The Vanguard system is very different from your typical holster.  Really, you can hardly call it a holster - it's more of a trigger cover.  The molded plastic only covers the bare minimum needed, ie, the trigger and trigger guard.  It attaches to you in two possible ways: via a belt loop for IWB carry or via 550 cord or other lanyard.  This means that bulk is reduced to an absolute minimum.  When I wear my G19 IWB, it almost feels like I've just got the gun shoved in my pants.  The solid fit of the holster, however, means that it is far safer and more secure than if I actually just shoved it in.   Surprisingly it's still very comfortable, even more comfortable than some hybrids I've worn, again with significantly less bulk than your average IWB.

One of the biggest uses I think this system presents is for carrying off-body, especially for the ladies.  A lady I know used to carry a Glock in her purse.  Being a fashionable young lady, she wasn't really interested in buying a purse designed for carry, so she bought a cheap Uncle Mike's at the store, put the Glock in it, then put the whole conglomeration in her purse.  Couple of problems with that - draw time is dramatically increased and it takes up a whole lot more room.  The other option (or so she thought) would be to just place the gun in the purse bare.  I probably don't have to point out the issue with that, but I will; with a Glock (or some models of M&P, the other gun they make Vanguards for), the only thing between you and boom is the trigger safety.  Spend a little time on YouTube, and you'll see how well that works out for people.

The Vanguard answers that problem.  Simply place the Vanguard on your gun, run the lanyard (or a piece of leather, or a fashionable chain, whatever) through the grommet and a hard point on your purse, like where the straps mount, and you are ready to go.  Just make sure the lanyard is strong enough to take the pressure of your draw by dry firing at home.

There is one big disadvantage of the Vanguard - getting the gun in it.  Your gun has to be placed in the Vanguard before you put it in your waistline or your bag.  There is no re-holstering with this gun.  This could present an issue if you were to draw your firearm and then need to put it back for some reason.  A little bit of practice and problem solving ahead of time should easily mitigate that particular issue, but I do point it out for your consideration.

Overall, this is definitely a system you should consider if your needs call for a simple IWB or bag carry solution.  And at $35, it's a great solution at a great price.

Image copyright Raven Concealment

Train hard, train safe, do work.

-Woody

Raven Concealment

Revised 28FEB14 range plan

Targets: 3" dot, 6" dot
Rounds: NTE 100
WITH GLOVES

String 1 (5 yds, 3" dot): 10 rounds from position 3.
Push out, acquire sights, fire one round into dot.  Scan, return to position 3.

String 2 (5 yds, 3" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire one round into dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 3 (5 yds, 3" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 4 (7 yds, 6" dot): 15 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 5 (7 yds, 6" dot): 15 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into a dot, fire controlled pair into a second dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 6 (7 yds, 6" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
Immediate action drills with multiple magazines and dummy rounds.

Target: 100 yd zeroing
Rounds: NTE 40

Zero M14 at 100 yds, gather data (come-up and hold-over) for 200 yds and 300 yds.

Range plan 28FEB14

Targets: IDPA, 3" dot, 6" dot
Rounds: NTE 100

String 1 (5 yds, 3" dot): 10 rounds from position 1
    Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan,
return to position 1.

String 2 (5 yds, 3" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
    Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan,
return to position 1.

String 3 (10 yds, 6" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
    Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan,
return to position 1.

String 4 (10 yds, 6" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
    Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into a dot, fire
controlled pair into a second dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 5 (10 yds, 6" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
    Immediate action drills with multiple magazines and dummy
rounds.

String 6 (7 yds, IDPA): Slide lock reload test
    From position 4, at the buzzer, fire one round into the target,
reload, fire one more.  Par time 4.15 sec, one round must be in -0, one
must be in -1 or less. Limited Vickers.

String 7 (5 and 7 yds, IDPA): Multi target engagement test
    From position 1, at the buzzer, draw and fire two rounds into
each target.  Par time 4.40 sec, on each target one round must be in -0,
one must be in -1 or less. Limited Vickers.

Targets: 12"x12" steel plate
Rounds: NTE 50

15 yds: Work slide lock reloads, multiple target engagement on timer

Target: 100 yd zeroing
Rounds: NTE 40

Zero M14 at 100 yds, gather data (come-up and hold-over) for 200 yds and 300 yds.

Target: 100 yd zeroing
Rounds: NTE 20

Have fun with M48 Yugo Mauser.

Monday's range plan

Rounds: NTE 100
Targets: 3" dots, 6" dots

String 1 (3-5 yds, 3" dot): 10 rounds from position 3.
Push out, acquire sights, fire one round into dot.  Scan, return to position 3.

String 2 (3-5 yds, 3" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire one round into dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 3 (3-5 yds, 3" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 4 (5-7 yds, 3" dot): 20 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 5 (10 yds, 6" dot): 15 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

String 6 (10 yds, 6" dot): 15 rounds from position 1
Draw, acquire sights, fire a controlled pair into a dot, fire controlled pair into a second dot.  Scan, return to position 1.

Basically, I've found that I can shoot fast, but my accuracy is suffering.  This range plan is designed to work on my accuracy.

Trigger pull alterations - some thoughts...

In the spirit of two earlier articles I posted on sport shooting and accessory/part selection, I wanted to share some lessons I've learned the hard way (not the "Oh crap, I'm going to die" hard way, just the "Hey, something's not right and I spent money on this" hard way). 

I own a CZ-85B that I had customized specifically for sport shooting.  As part of the custom work, I had a trigger job done that resulted in an amazing improvement in the crispness of the trigger and the pull weight reduction.  When I went to test fire it in the middle of the ammo shortage, I had a mix of PRVI and PMC ammo to run through it.  The PMC ran reliably throughout, but I experienced several failures to fire with the PRVI.  I took the ejected rounds and ran them through my other 9mm I had brought (unmodified), and they fired.  I was a little confused at first, because my CZ had always run whatever ammo I fed it previously.  Then I decided to read the description of the work that had been done to it.  Included in the trigger job was a lighter mainspring.  One of the things your mainspring influences (other than trigger weight) is how hard the hammer strikes the firing pin.  A lighter mainspring means a lighter hammer strike.  Ammo with harder primers (PRVI, TulAmmo, etc) may not reliably fire in a gun with a lighter mainspring. 

Does this concern me?  As it relates to my CZ, no.  As I stated, I wanted this gun modified specifically for sport shooting.  When I sport shoot, I control the ammunition that I feed it.  I'm not quite to reloading yet, but I can try multiple types of ammo, and feed it the one it likes best.  For those of you who are planning for the Day of the Zombie Horde or other self-defense/societal breakdown scenario, this should concern you.  Unless you have cases of ammo stacked in your garage (and judging from the shelves at Wal-Mart, some of you do), there will come a point when you will need to scavenge for ammo.  When that happens, you need a gun that will reliably fire whatever you can find.  Gun designers are relatively smart people, and they design guns to perform in a variety of scenarios.  If you choose to tune your gun for a specific purpose, that is perfectly fine, but be aware of the unintended consequences that may come of it.

My second lesson learned was with modifications made to my Glock.  I installed a spring kit and reduced weight trigger connector.  I liked the trigger pull so much when sport shooting that I considered changing out the springs on my carry pistol as well.  Then two things happened: 1) I actually read the spring manufacturer's instructions and 2) I paid more attention during my dry-fire practice.  The manufacturer's instructions specifically state that the reduced power striker spring, while excellent at reducing trigger pull weight is NOT to be used in a defensive pistol.  Why?  See above for my experience with the CZ.  Second, during dry-fire, I glanced down as I worked the slide to reset the trigger and noticed that the trigger was not resetting fully forward.  It was resetting far enough to be ready to fire, but not far enough to reset the trigger safety mechanism (that annoying lever on the trigger everyone loves to hate).  Per GLOCK’s website, “The trigger safety is a lever incorporated into the trigger. When the trigger safety is in the forward position it blocks the trigger from moving rearward. The trigger safety and the trigger must be fully depressed at the same time to fire the pistol. If the trigger safety is not depressed, the trigger will not move rearward and allow the pistol to fire. The trigger safety is designed to protect against firing if the pistol is dropped or the trigger is subjected to lateral pressure.”  In other words, if it doesn't reset properly, and my shirt/jacket gets in the trigger guard or I drop the pistol, bad things could happen.  The lower weight trigger spring I installed is the most likely culprit.  Since I plan to go to the range this weekend, I will re-install the original springs this week and dry-fire to see if the problem improves.  If I find the lighter springs are causing the problem, I will permanently remove them.

In summary, it's your gun, tune it the way you want, but ensure that you have done your research and understand any unintended consequences that may occur.  Just because it’s the latest and greatest, or the manufacturer promises that this is the last upgrade you’ll ever need, or your buddy tells you how much faster he is with his super-light trigger pull doesn’t necessarily make that set-up right for your intended use.

Firearm accessory analysis

            Merriam-Webster defines Analysis as “a careful study of something to learn about its parts, what they do, and how they are related to each other.”  In reality, most people conduct analysis on a daily, probably hourly, basis.  To thinking, functioning adults, analysis becomes an almost unconscious process that assists them in everything from building a budget, to planning the most efficient way to complete an errand run.

            In the firearms world, equipment manufacturers develop products that they advertise to give some sort of “edge.”  Examples include extended magazine releases, extended safeties, enhanced sights, enhanced triggers, and other enhancement products with a price range from relatively inexpensive to hundreds or thousands of dollars.  These products may legitimately provide a solution to a validated problem, however, new shooters purchasing a firearm for the first time (and some old shooters who just really like gear) often fall “under the spell” of these advertisements, and spend thousands of dollars customizing their firearms to the specifications of an individual who endorses the products without conducting any sort of analysis of their own needs.  Usually, the end product meets all the criteria for “high speed, low drag,” but may provide little to no real improvement to the shooter.  Conducting a simple analysis before cracking open the cool-guy firearm parts catalog remedies this situation.

            First, ask the question: “How do I intend to utilize this firearm?”  People utilize firearms for different reasons, including competition, self-defense outside the home, self-defense inside the home, and instruction of others in firearm usage.  While a product designed for one category may provide benefits to another category, each product must be evaluated separately.  For example, extended magazine releases enhance competition firearms by allowing for faster magazine changes, resulting in a lower time and possibly a higher ranking.  In a defensive situation, they provide the same benefit, resulting in less time spent with an empty gun in the face of an armed criminal.  However, a competition situation varies significantly from a defensive one.  In a competition scenario, competitors usually carry specialized holsters outside the confines of their clothes and intentionally minimize the dangers of an accidental magazine release (or carry enough spare magazines that losing one does not represent a critical failure).  In a defensive situation, the user frequently conceals the firearm underneath clothing, the firearm is subject to the bumps and bruises of daily life, and carrying copious amounts of extra ammunition is extremely impractical.  In this case, the loss of a magazine due to accidental release represents a much greater danger and deserves additional scrutiny by the shooter to determine if the enhancement warrants the additional risk.

            Next, ask “Can this firearm do the job without enhancements?”  Although this question is highly subjective, many first-time purchasers buy a stock firearm and immediately begin customizing, without ever having taken the firearm out for a test fire to determine its baseline performance levels. 

If the answer to the question to the above question is “no” or a qualified “yes,” the next question becomes “What specific performance enhancement does this product provide, and do I really need it (or, does the benefit gained from this enhancement outweigh possible risks or associated costs)?”  Once again, each individual shooter’s needs vary, and what appears to be a need for one may not be for another.  Going back to the magazine release example - my hands are very large, and I can easily reach the magazine release on all of my handguns with little to no difficulty, whereas a shooter with smaller hands may experience significant difficulty in reaching a magazine release, especially on firearms with double-stacked magazines.  In their case, they may “need” an extended release, and I may not.  If they elect to install the extended release, they should do so in light of question 1, and ensure their own willingness to accept the possible risks of the extended release.  The “needs” analysis must be conducted for every firearm enhancement being considered.

            After developing a list of their “needed” enhancements, shooters should ask, “How do these enhancements interact with each other, and can a single enhancement accomplish multiple tasks?”  This question comes from personal experience.  In an effort to improve my hands’ purchase on my handgun and speed up my magazine changes, I purchased an enhanced set of grips that included a “thumb scoop” and an extended magazine release.  I installed both parts and conducted dry-fire drills to test the parts’ efficacy.  I soon noticed that when I conducted a magazine change, my magazine release stuck.  After testing with multiple firearm manufacturers and multiple parts manufacturers, I discovered the issue.  The combination of the “thumb scoop” with the extended magazine release caused me to press the magazine release so far into the frame that it allowed the magazine catch lock to rotate out of position, locking the magazine release.  I re-installed the original magazine release with the new grips and the problem ceased.  The two enhancements, installed for two different reasons, actually addressed the same issue (easing access to the magazine release) and in my case, caused failures when installed together.  As a result, I removed the extended releases from all of my copies of that firearm and kept the grips in place.  This analysis saved me approximately $20 per firearm and provided greater reliability.

            As the shooter adds each enhancement to the firearm, they must conduct dry-fire and live-fire drills under conditions as close to their intended use as possible.  As they conduct these drills, they must continually analyze/assess with the question, “Is this enhancement performing the task for which I installed it, and is my firearm properly equipped for my expected situation?”  Equipment changes, needs change, and people change.  As a firearm’s mission evolves, enhancements that had been previously installed may progress into obsolescence, or new enhancements may be “required.”  A constant state of evaluation and analysis is necessary to ensure that the firearm remains ready for service.

            Although I focused on the magazine release here, this analysis holds true for any enhancement to be considered.  A proper analysis conducted beforehand, followed by a systematic evaluation of the enhancements with a focus on analyzing interrelationships between the firearm, enhancements, and shooter present the best possibility of a creating a personalized firearm that meets the shooters needs while reducing the impact on a shooter’s budget.

My off-body carry system

Many people have written commentary on the dangers of off-body carry.  To hear some of them, the minute you decide to carry off-body, your firearm will be stolen, your dog will be run over, and your car will get totaled in a horrific accident involving a pumpkin transportation truck.

Sarcasm aside, there are definite risks to consider before deciding on any carry system, but especially one that involves not having your firearm physically attached to you.  Massad Ayoob covers some of the risks in his books, but also acknowledges that for some people/situation combinations, off-body carry is necessary, and is better than not carrying at all.  Unfortunately, I fall into the necessary category, and I would say that the majority of my carry is now off-body.  For my needs, I have adopted a three-component system made up of the High Speed Gear Armordilla, G-Code OSH holster, and the G-Code/Upstate Tactical Supply Modular Velcro Panel.

Closed w/ flap

Front view w/ flap folded back

Only about halfway full

Blackhawk speed clips attaching flap

Top entrance to concealed compartment

The Armordilla is a high-quality attaché case designed to be modular not only through its use of MOLLE on the exterior, but also through its use of a removable flap. Thus, you can configure it in a standard attaché case/messenger bag, or in more of a grab and go bag with mag/utility pouches on the MOLLE front.  Either way, there are several options for concealing your firearm.  The bag itself has a large hidden compartment lined with hook and loop on the back side with access from top and sides.  The removable flap has a back zippered compartment with hook and loop as well.  I choose to utilize the dedicated back compartment for my concealment needs. 

G-Code OSH with Modular Velcro Panel

The G-Code OSH shouldn’t need a lot of introduction, but just in case, I personally feel it’s one of the best thought out holster systems on the market.  G-Code’s entire line is designed to be modular, either through the use of their RTI wheel, or through bolt-on attachment.  G-Code’s website includes attachments for MOLLE, drop leg, paddle, belt, or shoulder holster wear.  I have been using Kydex holsters since my first Fobus in 2003-ish (I still have that holster), and the market now is pretty much flooded with them.  Just about everyone that has two pieces of foam is cranking out holsters, some of which are excellent, and some of which are just clones without a lot of originality.  While G-Code’s holsters themselves are excellent, and I especially like the tension adjustment and ability to choose with or without a shirt guard, the system is what you are really buying, and it’s worth a close look.

G-Code doesn’t sell a hook and loop compatible attachment on their site, but they have worked with Upstate Tactical Supply of South Carolina to develop two different models (RTI and non-RTI) to adapt their holsters to the popular shoulder/sling/messenger bags used by so many today.  There’s not much to say about the panel itself.  It’s very simple, but it’s very solid.  The panel is approximately 4 inches across, which provides plenty of purchase on the loop inside the Armordilla pocket.  I have the tension on the holster set on the tighter side to avoid any sort of please-ignore-the-gun-that-fell-out-of-my-bag moments, and have had no issues in my practice time with the holster slumping in the pocket or with holster movement or release during draws.  I will say that you need the little plastic spacer that comes with the G-Code to properly attach the holster to the panel.  If you try to go straight to thepanel without the spacer, you will have issues with the holster and panel interfering with each other, at least with my 1911 Commander sized holster.

As a side note, the Armordilla comes with a nylon holster.  Nothing against High Speed Gear, their stuff is quality, but given the option between a one-size fits all nylon with no retention, and an adjustable tension Kydex holster that I know will hold the firearm securely and be available for re-holstering if needed, I’m going with Kydex. 

Loop section to create gap

Concealment compartment from side access

A little trick I’m trying for my draw is taking a small piece of loop and creating a gap for my hand to break into the compartment.  The three access points are closed with hook and loop (naturally), and trying to get into it by ripping it open slows access.  With the small break created, I can insert a knife-hand and break the seal as I go in, then grip the firearm and remove whatever seal was left as I draw.  Overall, I’m a big fan of all three pieces of gear, and I think they will serve me well for as long as off-body is necessary.

Range day with the Colt .22LR Rail Gun

Colt/Walther .22LR Rail Gun

 Got a change to go to the range today (took the Sunday School class along for fun).  I actually purchased this pistol probably six months ago, I just haven't had a chance to get to the range and shoot it.  Since my primary concealed carry and full-size defensive pistol are both Colt 1911s, this was the perfect companion training pistol.  It isn't my first .22LR 1911 - I have a Kimber conversion kit - and I've had issues with cheap .22LR, including Remington and Winchester bulk boxes, so when I found some CCI Mini-Mags, I grabbed 300 rounds or so.  I'm glad I did, because it's gone now, as I'm sure everyone's noticed.  The CCI functioned perfectly, and as illustrated below, was very accurate.

10 rounds @ 7 yards, rapid fire

The pistol itself is well executed.  I prefer this particular model over some of the other .22LR 1911s out there, mostly because all of its external operational controls are exactly the same as the real Colt Rail Gun. You can accomplish all of your shooting and immediate action drills on this pistol, and they translate directly over to your .45ACP. As advertised in their literature, aftermarket parts such as thumb safeties, triggers, sears, and hammers will fit into this pistol.  You could actually do a trigger job on your .22LR just like you can on your .45ACP.  Obviously, the slide parts do not interchange with your standard .45, nor does the magazine.  Another nice feature of this firearm is that the lower seems remarkably heavy compared to a .45.  It works out, however, because the slide is aluminum and a lot lighter than a steel slide.  Overall, the total weight is pretty accurate when compared to the Rail Gun, as opposed to the slide conversion kit I have, which ends up being a hair lighter.  Also, because this gun is designed from the ground up as a .22LR, it doesn't have some of the little twitches a .45 converted to .22 might, such as failures to feed and extract.
While .22LR is currently pretty hard to find, if you happen to have a stock and don't want to shoot up your .45ACP, this gun is perfect.  I highly recommend.

-Woody